Beauty

The Foundation Issue part I

Foundation gives many of us the chills! Some women do not wear foundation because they simply think it’s too much of a hassle to find the right shade, the right formula or the right way to apply it.

I put together a (I hope so!) easy guide to help you out!

When you’re blessed with good skin, you probably don’t need foundation. Lucky you! But maybe you want a little? Something light?

Options

Tinted Moisturizer

Self explanatory. A product that gives you a pretty sheer color with moisturizing benefits.

Downside: I have a feeling they are headed for extinction because the next product has been all the rage the last couple of years…

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BB-Cream

They provide coverage with added skin care benefits like SPF (& so much more). They are lighter than a foundation & heavier than a tinted moisturizer but I think it all depends on the brand. I tested A LOT of them the last couple of years & they are all so very different…
BB stands for Blemish Balm but it is mostly known as a Beauty Balm. It is supposed to replace a serum, moisturizer, primer, foundation & sunblock. That’s a lot right? I see it as a alternative to foundation. Especially in the summer.

Downside: Not so many shades available. BUT many formulae are designed to oxidize to match your skin tone.

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CC-Cream

CC stands for Color Correcting. It is lighter on the skin. Kind of an improved BB. They mainly reduce redness. Although I do not see or feel such a difference in the ones that I tried out.

Downside: once again, not so many shades available.

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DD-Cream

Dermatologically Defining. Self-adjusting coverage & mineral based. It defines, delays, defends, delights & delivers. It almost sounds perfect but the alphabet obviously continues.

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EE-Cream

Even Effect. What’s in a name right? It’s a multi-benefit cream for flawless, luminous, even-toned skin.

I’m already wondering when there’ll be a FF-Cream.

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Foundation

A cosmetic in a cream or cake form used as a base for make-up.

It comes in many shades & formulas. Something for all skin types…

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Formulas

Liquid

The most common form. It comes in many shades & finishes. A formula thats fit for most skin types. There are oil based & water based liquids.

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Stick

Its a creamy formula in a convenient package. Smart choice for longer lasting make-up against heat & humidity.

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Cream or Mousse

Fits best for mature skin or oily skin. It has a thicker texture and is mostly matte. You don’t want your oily skin to shine through nor your wrinkles…

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Powder

Multiple options. Mineral powders for example come in a loose or compact version. They work well with sensitive or acne prone skin because there are primarily no chemicals or fragrances added.
Compact powders are easy on the go. They offer more coverage then basic finishing powders.

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Coverage

Sheer

The most transparent version that contains the least amount of pigment. Won’t hide discolorations but it can minimize the contrast. There are protocols when it comes to pigments in foundations. 8-13% when it comes to sheer foundations.

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Light

It can cover unevenness but it is not opaque enough to cover freckles. Pigments: 13-18%

Medium

It can cover freckles, discolorations, red marks left by pimples & blotchiness when covered with a tinted powder. Pigments: 18-23%

Full

Very opaque coverage that is mainly used to cover birthmarks, vitiligo, hyper pigmentation & scars. Some call it camouflage make-up. Pigments: 23-35% (some even upto 50%!)

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Application Tools

Fingers

The most obvious choice. This creates the most natural look in my opinion. It’s the body heat from your finger tips that helps the foundation melt into your skin and makes it more blend-able. But always wash your hands 1st!

Sponge

Great for creating a sheer to medium look. Wet it before use with water or fix+ from MAC because else the sponge will absorb all of the product. Not so hygienic so needs to be washed after every use. Not my favorite.

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Brush

There are again many differences when it comes to brushes. You have synthetic bristles & natural bristles. Synthetics do not absorb too much of the liquids. Naturals are great for powders such as minerals. Then there’s also the density that makes a difference. The denser the brush, the less streaky your foundation will look.

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Airbrush

Application with an airbrush is flawless! But it is mainly used by MUAs. The device mixes the foundation with a controllable stream of compressed air. This way it adheres better and makes your skin look perfect.

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Skin Type Compatibles

Normal

Everything is possible! It all depends on the finish you want.

Combination

You need to adjust your foundation with the seasons. A lighter oil-free one in the summer and a richer hydrating one in the winter.

Dry

Stay away from oily & powder foundations. Balms & tinted moisturizers are the best.

Oily

Oil-free versions are the best. Greatest match is a mousse or a powder. Matte finish guaranteed.

Acne-Prone

By preference none but if it must, look for one with salicylic. An acne fighting ingredient.

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Right color?

It’s not an easy task finding the right color. Here are some tips.

• Swatch on your cheekbone instead of the back of your hand. This way it’s easier to find a color that really matches.

• When choosing a shade, also swatch the shade one tint lighter and darker. This way you’re sure you are making the right choice.

• Buy 2 shades. Your skin tone is darker in the summer & lighter in the winter. You can use the lighter one to highlight in the summer & the darker one to contour in the winter.

I hope this is a helpful start. Leave your thoughts in the comment section below!

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